[Supras] Quick diff question and short story.

[cthommes at adelphia.net]

Wow.  No way I'd do any of this on car.  Once you've removed the halfshafts you've done nearly all of the removal of the diff, which is actually a very quick and easy R&R job.  Save for hopelessly rusted mount bolts, diff work would be much easier done off car.

-Craig

---- Hacker J <jonbhacker at yahoo.com> wrote: 
> 
> I've done the on-car axle removal several times. To do it I took a small slide-hammer (like this
> one or equivalent http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38878) and
> modified it.
> 
> Because space is tight, the length of this shaft needs to be cut down.  For me, the simplest
> approach was to buy a long (14inch) threaded bolt at the hardware store to use as the shaft
> instead of the 24inch one that came with the slide hammer. To connect the hammer to the axle
> flange, I used the plate from a steering wheel puller (like this one
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37824 )
> 
> A couple of blows and the axle pops right out.  The next challenge is to get the seal out.  I used
> the same slide hammer setup, but switched over to the three-finger gismo to grab the seal. Again,
> the short shaft slide-hammer makes this a pretty easy job.
> 
> Problem I had with this repair was that it still leaked after I replaced the seal.  Problem was
> due to a barely visible groove worn in the half-shaft that prevented even a new seal from sealing.
> To see my solution to that you can read this thread here (or buy a new half-shaft).
> 
> http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41543
> 
> Getting the seal back in is not easy while under the car. You need to remove the chassis brace
> near the axle, and find a seal driver that is slightly smaller than the actual seal as it is
> recessed deep into the diff , and is very easy to get cocked due to its large diameter.
> 
> Jon
> 90T
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> > Guys,
> >  
> > Anyone know how to get the side gear shaft out (with the diff in car),
> > without using the sst? (HYPERLINK
> > "http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=RA&P=26"http:/
> > /www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=RA&P=26).  I blew a
> > seal ;)
> >  
> > FYI, as you may or may not know, I store my car in my garage for the winter.
> > (Burlington, Ontario, Canada).  Today I wanted some space behind the car to
> > work on something else, so I was just going to put the front wheels on the
> > driveway.  Hop in, start it up, drop the brake, pop the clutch, stall the
> > engine.  WTF?  The car won't budge!!  Damn, e-brake cables must be seized.
> > Jack the back end up; look.  Nope cables are sliding fine.  Back wheels
> > STILL won't turn.  Damn, did I seize the diff b/c I was low on fluid b/c of
> > the leak? (see first paragraph).  Both back wheels only turn about 10
> > degrees, then stop with a clunk, and are DEAD stopped with the e-brake up.
> > OK, I'll drop the diff.  But first, I took off the side gear shaft where I
> > have to replace the seal.  Does the wheel turn now?  Nope!  So it's GOTTA be
> > e-brake.  Sure enough, the e-brake pads rusted to the inside the of hubs,
> > and broke from the backing.  So it would turn until the pad stuck to the
> > drum hit the OTHER shoe!
> >  
> > Anyway, BOTH sides failed exactly the same way at the same time.  *Some*
> > people I talked to think that's a bit freaky.  (I happen to think that after
> > 7 years of storing it for the winter, it just didn't want to go out in the
> > snow!!!!)   And yeah, my fault for storing the car the car with the e-brake
> > up.  Habit.  Since the car has a remote start, I leave it out of gear with
> > the e-brake up.  The car won't autostart without the e-brake up, but WILL
> > start if it's in gear.  Haven't figured a way around that (that actually
> > works).
> >  
> > Anyway, your Saturday night entertainment story! :)  And if you know how to
> > get the side gear shaft off, let me know!
> >  
> > Thanks,
> >  
> > Eric
> > 91T.
> 
> 
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