[Supras] Help me locate an exhaust leak

t72pwrd nholden1 at woh.rr.com
Thu Apr 24 17:13:46 CDT 2008


Whoops, sorry.  I was talking about the HG.

Having said that, I used the FelPro on the exhaust manifold on several 
occasions with NO issues too.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Khalid Almufti" <kalmufti at yahoo.com>
To: <studioartist at yahoo.com>
Cc: <Supras at supras.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 12:16 AM
Subject: Re: [Supras] Help me locate an exhaust leak


> Hi!
>     I used the stock exhaust manifold gasket.  I did have my exhaust 
> manifold resurfaced by the machine shop when they did the work on my 
> cylinder head and block deck resurfacing, but I did that as a precaution, 
> IIRC there was no noticeable warpage when I checked the manifold.
>     If you've concluded that the cylinder head threads for the exhaust 
> manifold studs are not stripped, then that is good news and it looks like 
> you only need to replace the gasket.  As far as your question on removing 
> the three nuts on the downpipe, what I've done was to use a long 1/2" 
> drive wrench with a flexible socket joint and 14mm socket.  You could use 
> impact wrench to remove these nuts as well if you have one.  Otherwise, 
> you'll just have to muscle it.
>    I have never tried to get the exhaust gasket out without removing the 
> turbo charger, and I imagine that if you did keep the down pipe in place, 
> at least you have to disconnect the oil pipes and water hoses.  Again, I 
> don't know it this could work.
>     I'd say this is a two weekends repair job if you put in a couple of 
> hours every weekend.  Not having to drill and tap threads makes it easier, 
> but removing the turbo charger, down pipe and other lines and hoses does 
> make it a bit involved.  If you can take your time and work carefully, 
> then it will pay off in the long run.
>
> Regards,
> Khalid, 90T
>
> Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 15:02:30 -0700 (PDT)
> From: LN <studioartist at yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: [Supras] Help me locate an exhaust leak
> To: supras at supras.com, Khalid Almufti <kalmufti at yahoo.com>
> Message-ID: <211822.77228.qm at web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
>
>
> Hi Khalid,
>
> I undo this last bolt and it came out fine with no stripping.  However the
> nut was frozen onto the stud and came out as a whole assembly when I was
> backing it out.  Havent't had a chance to check the others studs/bolts yet
> as I don't have much time to work on it just yet.  I did however tried to
> snug them up about 1/4 to 1/2 turn without a torque wrench but just by 
> feel
> so that gve me hope that the threads are still intact
>
>
> Also I bought a Felpro gasket but afterward got to thinking if using an
> aftermaket instead of OEM would it mess up in getting  the true torque 
> spec
> of 29feet-lb and thus cause the stripping of the threads.  I wonder if 
> this
> might be the cause of people that have had stripped thread since I found 
> an
> article that mention gasket material and construction dictates the torque
> spec.  Here is the link for it http://www.boltscience.com/pages/gasket.htm 
> .
> Due to shortage of time I am dreading the prospect of helicoiling and just
> know that I would be running into a lot of time wasted in removing the 3
> bottom bolts connecting from exhaust manifold to downpipe in order to get
> access.  And that doesn't include drilling/tapping/helicoiling time .  Was
> told by the Autozone guy that I can avoid removing these 3 bolts since the
> manifold swings out 2-3" to allow me enough clearance to slip in the new
> gasket assuming that I don't have any stripped threads.  Do you have any
> tips or tricks in removing the 3 bolts?
>
> In any case I also purchase OEM Toyota gasket and they are built in 5 
> layers
> : perforated steel layer-composite abestos layer (guessing on the
> abestos)-smooth steel layer-composite layer again-smooth steel.  All held
> together by rivets.  The Felpro is built in 3 layers , a composite layer
> sandwiched by a layer of perforated steel on each side.
>
> I couldn't find any RTV that can handle the high heat since I am a bit
> concern that perhaps the leakage is due to warpage in the back area either
> from the head or the manifold mating side and was hoping that the RTV
> sealant might address these minor imperfections and allow for a quick 
> cheap
> fix till I have time to do a proper job.  I am awared of warpage allowance
> of  .10mm max on the head side and .75mm on the manifold side and the 
> proper
> way is to machine them down.  But  I also wonder how often does warpage
> happens.  The flow of the leak just like a knife cutting action which lead
> me to believe that it's warpage.
>
> What gasket manufacture did you use and did you use any RTV?  Would love 
> to
> hear from others also on this question.
>
> I know I am asking lots of questions but I truly appreciate your help and
> everyone else on the list that have responded.  I also know now that this 
> is
> the cause of lean reading on my emission report.
>
>
> 
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