[Supras] ARP-2.2 mm Cometic head bolt retorquing

[Jeff Mohler]

Ya cool..wanted to make sure.   We kick at least 1 car off the track
property a weekend for this.

Oil guages...thats ok, but fuel..no.

On 10/29/07, Walker, Brian (Rich. Dist) <Brian.Walker2 at vdot.virginia.gov>
wrote:
>
>  Right on, no fuel line into the cabin here. Still have to remain
> roadworthy, for now at least.
>
>  ------------------------------
> *From:* Jeff Mohler [mailto:speedtoys.racing at gmail.com]
> *Sent:* Monday, October 29, 2007 1:09 PM
> *To:* Walker, Brian (Rich. Dist)
> *Cc:* berniek at technicaldevelop.com; Supras at supras.com
> *Subject:* Re: [Supras] ARP-2.2 mm Cometic head bolt retorquing
>
> Brian..you DO mean an electric sender guage, right?
>
>
>
> On 10/29/07, Walker, Brian (Rich. Dist) < Brian.Walker2 at vdot.virginia.gov>
> wrote:
> >
> > Bernie, FWIW I've never done a retorque of the head bolts (replacing
> > rings/bearings about 6 years ago, hand lapping of block, HKS MHG and
> > stock bolts tq'd to 75 ft-lbs.) I don't know if the necessity would
> > differ for the ARP bolts. Have they been torqued to yield at 85 ft-lb?
> > That may be the determining factor (no longer in elastic range so less
> > tendency to back off)
> >
> > I noticed something in your post and wanted to point it out, many people
> > are concerned with fuel press gauges in the fuel rail. I've got one too
> > and several race buddies have pointed out stories of the gauge face
> > cracking and throwing fuel onto the engine, etc. Especially if you're
> > using the AFPR w/ mount that was sold as a mk3 kit, it points the gauge
> > face right toward the alternator. I'm planning to remove it and replace
> > with a sensor to an in cabin gauge for safety.
> >
> > Brian W
> >
> > Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 22:38:57 -0400
> > From: " berniek at technicaldevelop.com" <berniek at technicaldevelop.com>
> > Subject: [Supras] ARP-2.2 mm Cometic head bolt retorquing
> > To: Rockey Fox < supr91tt at yahoo.com>, "Supras at supras.com"
> >         <Supras at supras.com>
> > Message-ID: < 4723F641.3080406 at technicaldevelop.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> >
> > Rockey and group:
> >
> >     Just got done pulling the top end of the engine apart and first
> > removed the cam cover on the exhaust side after about 50 miles and maybe
> >
> > 10 temperature cycles.  The ARP nuts were tight.  They cracked slightly
> > when loosening them with a torque of about 80-90 lb-ft.  When
> > retorquing, virtually no tightening was required, even up to 90 lb-ft.
> > I tried about 3 nuts, two in the center and one at the front end, and
> > they were all the same.  After seeing that, I did not bother to remove
> > the intake cover (difficult due to fuel pressure gauge  in the injector
> > rail and dual injector connectors.  Left the stock ones in place "just
> > in case" and spliced in the Greddy connectors).
> >
> >
> >     I still wonder, though, if in time the indentations the gasket will
> > make in the head and block from thermally induced relative movement will
> > make retorquing necessary in the future.  Guess I might take a look at
> > this again at perhaps 10K miles.  In the meantime, on to 14 PSI boost.
> >
> >
> >     As always, comments would be appreciated.
> >
> >
> >           BernieK
> >
> >
> >
> >
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> >
>
>