[Supras] ARP-2.2 mm Cometic head bolt retorquing

[Walker, Brian (Rich. Dist)]

Right on, no fuel line into the cabin here. Still have to remain
roadworthy, for now at least.

________________________________

From: Jeff Mohler [mailto:speedtoys.racing at gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 1:09 PM
To: Walker, Brian (Rich. Dist)
Cc: berniek at technicaldevelop.com; Supras at supras.com
Subject: Re: [Supras] ARP-2.2 mm Cometic head bolt retorquing


Brian..you DO mean an electric sender guage, right?




On 10/29/07, Walker, Brian (Rich. Dist) <
Brian.Walker2 at vdot.virginia.gov <mailto:Brian.Walker2 at vdot.virginia.gov>
> wrote: 

	Bernie, FWIW I've never done a retorque of the head bolts
(replacing 
	rings/bearings about 6 years ago, hand lapping of block, HKS MHG
and
	stock bolts tq'd to 75 ft-lbs.) I don't know if the necessity
would
	differ for the ARP bolts. Have they been torqued to yield at 85
ft-lb? 
	That may be the determining factor (no longer in elastic range
so less
	tendency to back off)
	
	I noticed something in your post and wanted to point it out,
many people
	are concerned with fuel press gauges in the fuel rail. I've got
one too 
	and several race buddies have pointed out stories of the gauge
face
	cracking and throwing fuel onto the engine, etc. Especially if
you're
	using the AFPR w/ mount that was sold as a mk3 kit, it points
the gauge 
	face right toward the alternator. I'm planning to remove it and
replace
	with a sensor to an in cabin gauge for safety.
	
	Brian W
	
	Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 22:38:57 -0400
	From: " berniek at technicaldevelop.com
<mailto:berniek at technicaldevelop.com> " <berniek at technicaldevelop.com>
	Subject: [Supras] ARP-2.2 mm Cometic head bolt retorquing
	To: Rockey Fox < supr91tt at yahoo.com <mailto:supr91tt at yahoo.com>
>, "Supras at supras.com"
	        <Supras at supras.com>
	Message-ID: < 4723F641.3080406 at technicaldevelop.com
<mailto:4723F641.3080406 at technicaldevelop.com> >
	Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
	
	Rockey and group:
	
	    Just got done pulling the top end of the engine apart and
first
	removed the cam cover on the exhaust side after about 50 miles
and maybe 
	10 temperature cycles.  The ARP nuts were tight.  They cracked
slightly
	when loosening them with a torque of about 80-90 lb-ft.  When
	retorquing, virtually no tightening was required, even up to 90
lb-ft.
	I tried about 3 nuts, two in the center and one at the front
end, and 
	they were all the same.  After seeing that, I did not bother to
remove
	the intake cover (difficult due to fuel pressure gauge  in the
injector
	rail and dual injector connectors.  Left the stock ones in place
"just 
	in case" and spliced in the Greddy connectors).
	
	
	    I still wonder, though, if in time the indentations the
gasket will
	make in the head and block from thermally induced relative
movement will
	make retorquing necessary in the future.  Guess I might take a
look at 
	this again at perhaps 10K miles.  In the meantime, on to 14 PSI
boost.
	
	
	    As always, comments would be appreciated.
	
	
	          BernieK
	
	
	
	
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