[Supras] ARP-2.2 mm Cometic head bolt retorquing

[Jim Jobe]

Neither stock no ARP bolts/studs for the 7M are TTY.  I've
always retorqued once after a few thousand miles but make sure
to turn the bolts/nuts as little as possible when breaking free
to avoid losing all clamping force on the HG.  This is a very
subjective area and most of the "racers" and "engine builders"
do not have experience with inline 6's, much less those with
aluminum heads.

Most fuel pressure gauages are oil filled.  They leak oil
(and only a little) when broken, not fuel unless the internals
broken too.  Most have a rubber plug on the back where you can refill
them.  The problem with them however is the reading will change with
temperature.

On Mon, Oct 29, 2007 at 09:04:22AM -0400, Walker, Brian (Rich. Dist) wrote:
> Bernie, FWIW I've never done a retorque of the head bolts (replacing
> rings/bearings about 6 years ago, hand lapping of block, HKS MHG and
> stock bolts tq'd to 75 ft-lbs.) I don't know if the necessity would
> differ for the ARP bolts. Have they been torqued to yield at 85 ft-lb?
> That may be the determining factor (no longer in elastic range so less
> tendency to back off)
> 
> I noticed something in your post and wanted to point it out, many people
> are concerned with fuel press gauges in the fuel rail. I've got one too
> and several race buddies have pointed out stories of the gauge face
> cracking and throwing fuel onto the engine, etc. Especially if you're
> using the AFPR w/ mount that was sold as a mk3 kit, it points the gauge
> face right toward the alternator. I'm planning to remove it and replace
> with a sensor to an in cabin gauge for safety.
> 
> Brian W
> 
> Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 22:38:57 -0400
> From: "berniek at technicaldevelop.com" <berniek at technicaldevelop.com>
> Subject: [Supras] ARP-2.2 mm Cometic head bolt retorquing
> To: Rockey Fox <supr91tt at yahoo.com>, "Supras at supras.com"
> 	<Supras at supras.com>
> Message-ID: <4723F641.3080406 at technicaldevelop.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> 
> Rockey and group:
> 
>     Just got done pulling the top end of the engine apart and first
> removed the cam cover on the exhaust side after about 50 miles and maybe
> 10 temperature cycles.  The ARP nuts were tight.  They cracked slightly
> when loosening them with a torque of about 80-90 lb-ft.  When
> retorquing, virtually no tightening was required, even up to 90 lb-ft.  
> I tried about 3 nuts, two in the center and one at the front end, and
> they were all the same.  After seeing that, I did not bother to remove
> the intake cover (difficult due to fuel pressure gauge  in the injector
> rail and dual injector connectors.  Left the stock ones in place "just
> in case" and spliced in the Greddy connectors). 
> 
> 
>     I still wonder, though, if in time the indentations the gasket will
> make in the head and block from thermally induced relative movement will
> make retorquing necessary in the future.  Guess I might take a look at
> this again at perhaps 10K miles.  In the meantime, on to 14 PSI boost. 
> 
> 
>     As always, comments would be appreciated.
> 
> 
>           BernieK
> 
> 
> 
> 
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