[Supras] ARP-2.2 mm Cometic head bolt retorquing

[Walker, Brian (Rich. Dist)]

Bernie, FWIW I've never done a retorque of the head bolts (replacing
rings/bearings about 6 years ago, hand lapping of block, HKS MHG and
stock bolts tq'd to 75 ft-lbs.) I don't know if the necessity would
differ for the ARP bolts. Have they been torqued to yield at 85 ft-lb?
That may be the determining factor (no longer in elastic range so less
tendency to back off)

I noticed something in your post and wanted to point it out, many people
are concerned with fuel press gauges in the fuel rail. I've got one too
and several race buddies have pointed out stories of the gauge face
cracking and throwing fuel onto the engine, etc. Especially if you're
using the AFPR w/ mount that was sold as a mk3 kit, it points the gauge
face right toward the alternator. I'm planning to remove it and replace
with a sensor to an in cabin gauge for safety.

Brian W

Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 22:38:57 -0400
From: "berniek at technicaldevelop.com" <berniek at technicaldevelop.com>
Subject: [Supras] ARP-2.2 mm Cometic head bolt retorquing
To: Rockey Fox <supr91tt at yahoo.com>, "Supras at supras.com"
	<Supras at supras.com>
Message-ID: <4723F641.3080406 at technicaldevelop.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Rockey and group:

    Just got done pulling the top end of the engine apart and first
removed the cam cover on the exhaust side after about 50 miles and maybe
10 temperature cycles.  The ARP nuts were tight.  They cracked slightly
when loosening them with a torque of about 80-90 lb-ft.  When
retorquing, virtually no tightening was required, even up to 90 lb-ft.  
I tried about 3 nuts, two in the center and one at the front end, and
they were all the same.  After seeing that, I did not bother to remove
the intake cover (difficult due to fuel pressure gauge  in the injector
rail and dual injector connectors.  Left the stock ones in place "just
in case" and spliced in the Greddy connectors). 


    I still wonder, though, if in time the indentations the gasket will
make in the head and block from thermally induced relative movement will
make retorquing necessary in the future.  Guess I might take a look at
this again at perhaps 10K miles.  In the meantime, on to 14 PSI boost. 


    As always, comments would be appreciated.


          BernieK