[Supras] MHG-ARP retorquing

[Steve Michael]

Do the re-torque, Bernie. Don't wait for the 3rd cycle.

It really doesn't take that long, and the peace of mind is well worth the 
time.

After two cycles, the head, gasket & block have become more familiar with 
each other, but they still need that final flattening. This is especially 
necessary because of the possiblility of "false torque", or a bolt that 
bound up on the threads without making sufficient torque with the head. Even 
if you chased the threads on the block & blew the debris out, there's still 
a chance of a tiny particle that may mess up a nice, even pressure. I found 
that on TWO of my bolts when I last did the HG in my car (over 5k miles 
ago). They backed off to just barely break the torque (1/8 turn), but then 
took at least one FULL turn to bring up to torque again!

If ARP sez to do it, then you should.

Start in the middle and just BARELY break the surface tension of the bolt on 
the head. Then re-torque that same bolt to ~55 or 60 ft/lbs. Make one pass 
around the head in the in-to-out pattern, and then repeat your torque 
sequences in 5 lb. increments until you reach the specified torque on all 14 
bolts. This perferred number varies by who you talk to on the forum and if 
you lubed your bolt threads or not, with oil or Moly lube. I'd go with 
~80-85 lbs, but your 2.2 mm gasket may require less.  Then bolt up the valve 
covers with SS hex head bolts with the rubber grommets AND internal-tooth 
lock washers. Throw away those phillips head PITAs.  No more oily top end!

BTW, thanks again for the electric diagnosis stuff a few years ago with my 
bad starter/solenoid. Even though you said differently, the $11 Mustang 
external solenoid bypass for my 90 Auto definitely cured the problem.

Steve in AZ...90T for Me, 60-trim going in!
305 RWHP, 350 RWTQ at SILV'07 on my STOCK trim CT26-A.

Subject: [Supras] MHG-ARP retorquing
To: "Supras at supras.com" <Supras at supras.com>
Message-ID: <4713EA1F.9090606 at technicaldevelop.com>
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Cometic says there is no need to retorque the head after a couple of
temperature cycles (have 2.2mm gasket).  I have about 20 miles on the
refreshed JDM engine in my '91.  However, ARP says to retorque.
Somewhat of a PITA but not terribly so.  What is the consensus?