[Supras] (no subject)

[Jim Wooden]

Bernie:

THANKS!!! Excellent stuff here!

Ummm one question ... I guess I missed your fix for the were on the 
camshaft bearing caps....
Was is to remove a bit of height from the caps? or ???   ;-)

Thanks,
Jim


At 01:00 PM 10/6/2007, supras-request at supras.com wrote:
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>Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Lessons from engine swap newbie (berniek at technicaldevelop.com)
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Message: 1
>Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2007 12:15:51 -0400
>From: "berniek at technicaldevelop.com" <berniek at technicaldevelop.com>
>Subject: [Supras] Lessons from engine swap newbie
>To: "Supras at supras.com" <Supras at supras.com>
>Message-ID: <4707B4B7.3040107 at technicaldevelop.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
>I've had the top end of my '90T apart many times, which is the way I
>discovered cam cap wear and the way to fix it.  However, now is the
>first time I've done a complete engine rebuild and assembly and swap for
>my newly acquired rust-free (Texas) '91.  Lessons learned which may be
>of use to others are as follows, hopefully helpful:
>
>
>1.  The turbo spark timer gear has gear 13 teeth, an odd number with
>consequences.  When I put the engine together, I thought the spark
>timing was correct.  However, I could only advance the static timing to
>about 5 degrees  ATC after startup.   So off came everything to get to
>the timer, pulled it out and advanced it by one tooth.  Big mistake.
>The spark timing then could be varied from about 40 to 20 degrees BTC.
>When originally set to TDC during timing belt installation on the engine
>stand, I put the timer in while the engine was at TDC but apparently for
>the power stroke on cylinder 6 (opposite cylinder 1 in the firing
>order).  So again everything came off to get to the timer, and I
>advanced it by 6 teeth, splitting the difference between advancing by
>one tooth the first time (the reason why an odd number of teeth is
>important, like it had 26 teeth rather than 13).  This is OK due to the
>wasted spark system.  The engine will start and run at closed throttle
>without the AFM working.  So that time I started it, checked the spark
>timing, and set it to about 13 degrees BTC with all of the inlet
>plumbing, power steering reservoir bracket, etc.off the car.  It was
>totally weird running the engine to set the timing with no accordion
>hose, no AFM, nothing connected to the 3000 pipe and the cover off the
>timer.  There is about a one degree scatter between firing of #6 and #2
>according to the timing light.
>
>
>2.  Upgrading to a 57 trim turbo requires a large blowoff valve. The
>right angle Porsche/Saab item fits well epoxing the accordian hose
>connecting pipe into the discharge (side connection), and using a piece
>of a spare crankcase to head vent hose (the one behind the alternator)
>to make the connection to the 3000 pipe.  The hose does not have fabric
>reinforcement, so will be watched closely since I'll be running 15 PSI
>boost.  But the correct segment of it fits the application like its made
>for it.  The vacuum diaphragm hose on the valve just touches the
>accordion hose.
>
>
>3.  Adjustment of the Lexus AFM screw is easy if the AFM is turned to
>make the sensing module cover horizontal.  However, it requires
>fabrication of a new rear bracket for the AFM.  Also, I drilled and
>tapped the slotted end of the bypass screw with a #6-32 thread to pull
>it out if desired using a #6-32 as a handle to overcome O-ring
>friction.  The inside end of the screw is sealed.  Apparently Reg was
>not right in statements to almost completely close off the bypass passage.
>
>
>4.  The '91 came with an HKS air filter, which appears to be real crap
>from reports on the internet and the fact that the foam can be seen
>through.  Moreover, it is oiled, not good for the AFM sensor.  However,
>the curvature of the baseplate seems really good for straight airflow
>into the AFM.  A different element may be adapted (maybe the stock paper
>element without the restriction of the stock housing).
>
>
>5.  At the last minute I decided to upgrade to T-bolt hose clamps on the
>discharge side of the turbo, especially the one at the turbo outlet (can
>get to others quite readily).  T-Bolts do not cover very much size
>range, and I had run out of adjustment on the turbo discharge.  I had to
>make up a circular shim from 3-1/8" tubing in the junk pile here with a
>gap in it to use under the clamp.  The inside ends of the tubing shim
>were beveled with a bench grinder to not dig into the hose.  That worked
>really well.
>
>
>6.  Most upgrades to the Lexus AFM state to stretch the accordion hose
>over the outlet end.  That was disconcerting to do, since the hose
>hardens and cracks fast enough as it is.  If you can find it at a local
>junk yard, look for a Reillo oil burner and take the blast tube from it
>if of 3-1/8" diameter.  That size tubing may also be available from
>McMaster.  It fits with about .035" clearance in the outlet of the Lexus
>flowmeter.  I epoxied a piece in, and secured it more with sheet metal
>screws in holes drilled in the Lex outlet hose connection area.  You can
>shape the epoxy as it is curing to avoid a sharp transition between the
>Lex outlet bore and the inside end of the tubing.  The ID of the tubing
>is more than the Lex sensor location ID, so use of the tubing should not
>cause flow restriction (look at the inlet size of the CT-26, even a 57
>trim upgrade.  It is smaller yet).  Then, cut off the thin end of the
>accordion hose, and clamp the thick part of the hose over the tubing
>coming out of the Lex outlet.  It is just about the right size, and
>everything lengthwise winds up in the same lengthwise position as with
>the stock AFM.
>
>
>7.  I used an almost new radiator, used for about a month in my '90
>before the BHG.  During the first thermal soak, the bottom hose
>connection blew off, spewing antifreeze everywhere (bottom engine cover
>not on yet).  The radiator outlet pipe stub is smooth and may have been
>responsible.  In any event, a screw type hose clamp, tightened almost to
>the breaking point now resides there.
>
>
>8.  Many on the list will disagree with need for this.  I had cut and
>brazed an extension in the oil pickup to locate it further back in the
>pan as protection against oil starvation under acceleration up hills.
>1/2" tubing worked fine as the extension piece, fitting snugly inside
>the pickup tubing after cutting the horizontal section and deburring
>it.  The pickup was moved back one main bearing distance, and a robust
>second bracket was made up and brazed to the pickup (in addition to the
>stock brace).  Each was bolted to a piece of heat formed 1/8" thick
>steel strap under the main bearing bolt heads one location to the rear
>of the stock location, so it is very rigid.  I've had oil starvation
>before with other cars, and is apparently one reason why many say to run
>the Supra one quart high.  The oil pan baffle was cut out to accommodate
>the approximate 3" rearward location.
>
>
>9.  Be absolutely sure to connect both heater hoses before doing the
>final engine drop into the car, or disconnect the hoses at the other end
>to connect later.  I missed one (goes to the heater core at about the
>center of the firewall), and it was hellacious to install, requiring
>removal of the EGR valve and master brake cylinder (no, I do not have
>the arms of a 300 pound guy).
>
>
>10.  The EGR valve is easier to remove if the compression fitting and
>flange connected to the intake is removed.  To do so, the bolt holes for
>the flange need to be slotted on the side facing the bell housing, in
>order to allow engagement of the compression fitting.  5/16" washers
>over the slots under the nuts work fine to hold it in place later.
>Slotting was done on a metal cutting bandsaw.
>
>
>11.  The engine went together easily enough on the stand, but I left off
>the intake plenum, throttle body and all associated with it.  BIG
>mistake.  I had little  choice, however, since I used a JDM for the
>rebuild, without EGR or the same throttle body as on US models.  My wife
>would have gone nuts with two engines in the cellar (ground level, same
>as garage 40 feet away).  One was enough.  Now with the '91 block as a
>core, I can rebuild a complete engine if I decide to in the cellar
>without two taking up space at the same time.
>
>
>12.  Claims about use of a new oil pressure sender seem correct.  Now I
>get pressure readings which are about the same as those obtained with a
>piece of 1/4" copper tubing soldered into an oil filter and connected to
>good pressure gauge with a hose.
>
>
>13.  Both stock '91 mounts were broken, with rubber pulled away from the
>steel end plates,  The safety stops are apparently what protected
>against excessive engine lifting.  '98 MkIV mounts were used in engine
>installation, which appear to be two rolled or crimped halves with
>captive urethane inside.  They are the same size as mid '89 to 92
>mounts, but a locating lug on the bottom needs to b ground off.  Be VERY
>careful with these mounts if you ever need to lower the transmission to
>change the starter, etc.  Loosen the frame side nuts before lowering the
>transmission, as the mounts are very stiff and may break (conjecture,
>but I don't want to try it).
>
>14.  '91 starters have tapped mounting holes whereas earlier ones do not
>and use nuts instead.  Much easier to change.
>
>15:  One guy on ebay sells Denso starter solenoid replacement parts
>including contacts and the plunger and pushrod assembly with the ring
>contact.  They appear to be good quality and are cheap.  Measure your
>pushrods exactly, though, as some differ only by a millimeter or so.
>Starter brush wear does not appear to be a problem, but solenoid
>contacts are.  Alternator brushes appear to last for at least 300,000
>miles.
>
>
>16.  Be sure to engage the two fan shroud latches at the bottom, if you
>take apart both halves of the shroud.
>
>
>17.  If you have brittle connectors on the wiring harness, and a latch
>breaks off, the connector may be held together with a black tie-wrap run
>between the wires of each half to hold the connector together.  White
>tie wraps are plain nylon, and fail at low temperatures.
>
>
>18:  Although the O2 sensor is the same between '90 and '91, the
>connector harness is different starting in '91.  The later connector is
>also used in our '95 Camry, although the sensor is screwed in place.  .
>
>
>19.  There is no need to disconnect the two electric fans when replacing
>the radiator.  They will pull upwards and out, and rest on the left
>inner fender.
>
>
>20:  Just received the first item for the 3" exhaust ordered from a
>Random Technology dealer,  It was the Lipp elbow, which was said to be
>cast iron.  It is not.  Due to no magnetic properties, it is likely 300
>series stainless, maybe 303 or 304, but could also be 316 for the price
>of almost $200.  It is non-magnetic, the major consideration regarding
>material ideentification.  .
>
>
>     Enough for now.  Hope some of this was helpful.
>
>
>           Bernie
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
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>End of Supras Digest, Vol 47, Issue 8
>*************************************