[Supras] Rear Strut cost

[Jeff]

Just got the drivers side out - you were correct. The spring is unloaded and
the shock comes "right" out (cough :) ). I wasn't sure that it was fully
unloaded so I put a spring tool on it and turned it down about 2 turns past
hand tight - just to be sure that I didn't kill myself. Won't do it on the
other side - not necessary.

I'm replacing the original with Monroe's but the new shocks didn't come with
a spring plate on the bottom of the shock. I took the old plate off of the
old shock (came off with three easy hits with a hammer) and it appears to
fit on the new  fine. Do you (or anyone) know if this is the way it's
suppose to be? I'm concerned that perhaps they gave me the wrong shock.

The last hurtle is finding a bumper and bellows kit - appears that Monroe
doesn't list one for our toy.

Thanks for your help and I'll let you know how it ends.

Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Peacock" <rdp at ix.netcom.com>
To: <jprisco at optonline.net>
Cc: <supras at supras.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 12:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Supras] Rear Strut cost


> I was just a little bit off, but the principle was right...  After a bit
> more thought, I actually set the car up on jack stands so the suspension
> hangs free, wheel 4"+ off the ground.  Remove the wheel and misc stuff.
> If I recall correctly (IIRC), a brake line is attached to the shock
> housing in stock configuration (? I have SS brake lines).  TEMS/non-TEMS
> are nearly the same once you take off the actuators.  I'm 99% sure I
> don't disconnect the sway bar.   With both sides jacked up and hanging,
> the swaybar should be unloaded and allow the suspension to drop.  I
> think I read someone else suggesting that you disconnect it.  I would
> recommend strongly against that.  It's a much bigger pain in the ass
> than you'd think and the end links are not cheap to replace.  If you did
> as I described before (leaving one wheel on the ground), the swaybar
> would be loaded and you probably wouldn't be able to lower the
> suspension enough.
>
> Anyways, with the car up in the air on jack stands on a concrete surface
> (not gravel or blacktop), I put a jack under the shock absorber and lift
> the *suspension* slightly (about 1") to put slight upwards pressure on
> the shock & keep the spring from jumping/falling down.  Unbolt the big
> nut from the shock absorber shaft inside the car.  The shaft is notched
> so it shouldn't rotate.  Once the nut is off, lower the jack slowly and
> the whole thing should come apart with minimal effort (*cough* 20 year
> old car *cough*).  The suspension should drop more than normal with the
> shock unbolted, allowing the spring to unload completely and IIRC allow
> enough room to get the assembly out.  The shock is inside the spring, so
> it has no chance to hurt you as long as you don't do something
> completely stupid.
>
> When you put it back together, put the shock absorber/spring into place
> and bolt the bottom of the shock.  Then lift the suspension
> arm/shock/spring with the jack.  Make sure the *shock shaft* is oriented
> correctly to the notched shock top.  Make sure the *spring end* is
> rotated and seated in the cup correctly.
>
> As far as front verses rear is concerned...  The front lower ball joints
> are easily unbolted if you undo the three nuts.  Swing the lower A-arm
> out of the way.  I've also undone the upper A-Arm at the top near the
> car, but the passenger side bolt fouls the washer bottle on the early
> models (probably due to headlight washers).  It becomes a PITA.  On the
> rears I don't recall any special problems.
>
> Buy up some penetrating oil and a large hammer.  My car is a rust free
> beauty as well but it has it moments.  ;o)
>
> I'll send you some pictures tomorrow if I can find a stock shock setup
> so you know what you're getting into.
> -Rich
>
>
> jprisco at optonline.net wrote:
> > That's very interesting information. I'm looking at all stock - non
> > -TEMS .... so if unbolt the top before I jack up the car the rear
> > springs will be totaly unloaded? In which case I don't need to take
> > them to a shop to swap out the strut?
> >
> > If that's true then I feel a lot better.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Rich Peacock
> > Date: Thursday, March 29, 2007 9:28 am
> > Subject: Re: [Supras] Rear Strut cost
> > To: Jeff
> > Cc: t72pwrd , cthommes at adelphia.net, Jeff Mohler , supras at supras.com,
> > kreber at erols.com
> >
> > > People will warn you not to be in front of the spring if the
> > > compressor
> > > breaks... I had a spring compressor slip and rotate on the
> > > spring and
> > > nearly take my fingers off. Today I duct tape the compressor to
> > > the
> > > spring at each end and hold the whole thing down with my foot
> > > (and a
> > > steel toed boot). I evenly compress the spring with an air
> > > wratchet,
> > > not an impact.
> > >
> > > On a separate thought, I've done 6-8 suspension swaps and
> > > contrary to
> > > what you all are posting, I've never used a spring compressor on
> > > a MKIII
> > > Supra??? I think I usually unbolt the top of the shock while
> > > the car is
> > > on the ground and then lift the car with a jack and unbolt
> > > everything
> > > else. The spring comes out unloaded that way. Are you guys
> > > talking
> > > about stock/tokico style shocks or did I miss something?
> > > -Rich
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Jeff wrote:
> > > > Actually the car has no rust .... and no TEMS. If I'm
> > > understanding this
> > > > correctly - without TEMS I can get the struts in and out (both
> > > sides) in
> > > > like 2 hours. The local AutoZone will loan me (for free) what
> > > appears to be
> > > > a pair of heavy duty spring compressors - they say the
> > > compressor tool sells
> > > > for $100 - is that a good one? How much do I have to compress
> > > the springs to
> > > > get them out of the car? I have no problem taking them
> > > somewhere to be
> > > > swapped off the old struts after their out. Just don't want to
> > > break an
> > > > appendage doing this :)
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > JP
> > >
> > >
> > >
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.20/737 - Release Date: 3/28/2007
4:23 PM
>
>