[Supras] Hopefully useful ARP head stud information

Mon Jul 30 11:48:12 CDT 2007

I'm not sure why the turbo lines at the block are an issue
for everyone, but I can remove and install the turbo oil
lines on the block fairly easily.  The return needs a 7"
extension, 12mm deep well socket, and an approx 12" ratchet.  Feed
the extension and socket down between the fender and turbo, feel
for the return line and run the extension/socket parallel to it.
Once it hits the block feel around for the studs, then attach
the ratchet.  Repeat to install but put the nut in the socket
first.  Works every time for me.

On Mon, Jul 30, 2007 at 02:12:48AM -0400, berniek at technicaldevelop.com wrote:
> Dear Jim:
> 
>    With all due respect, use what works with little chance of 
> breakage.  In my case, over the hears I.be built or modified about 20 
> different tools for different applications, including one to allow turbo 
> oil line removal from the turbo directly rather than engage in the 
> hassle at the block.  One even removes EGR valves on GM V8s with TBi, a 
> real pain in he ass.
> 
> 
>       BernieK
> 
> 
> 
> Jim Jobe wrote:
> >BTDT.  I think we did ours with a file and drill press.  That was 8
> >or 9 years ago.  I'll take the 3/8 drive socket and reducer any day.  I
> >haven't broken my 3/8-1/2 reducer since I bought the spare.  It either
> >knows what it's in for or Sears improved it due to me returning the broken
> >ones.  :-)  The first socket hasn't broken either, and it's done quite a
> >few heads.  It barely fits btw, so it's just the right size.
> >
> >Not to be rude, but I paid more for my clutch than most people have paid
> >for their mk3's.  :-) 92T, 72kmiles, >500rwhp.
> >
> >On Sun, Jul 29, 2007 at 11:54:25PM -0400, berniek at technicaldevelop.com 
> >wrote:
> >  
> >>Jim:
> >>
> >>   Thanks for the tip.  At 80 lb-ft, I went for a 1/2" drive socket 
> >>long before the time to install the ARP studs came up.  By buying the 
> >>44444, I was able to tailor the size and steps in the size to exactly 
> >>what was needed.  The 3/8" drive version is no doubt fine for ARP stud 
> >>use.  However, I bought the 1/2" socket knowing that I would need to 
> >>machine it, and would not break reducers.  Many of us spend thousands of 
> >>dollars on our precious MkIIIs.  A small lathe with at least minimal 
> >>tooling will cost less than $1500 and will be found to be invaluable for 
> >>so many tasks, including light milling with a milling attachment (check 
> >>ebay).
> >>
> >>      Bernie
> >>
> >>Jim Jobe wrote:
> >>    
> >>>Grinding the socket down, yeah, BTDT.
> >>>
> >>>Try Craftsman 44418, 14mm, 3/8 drive, 12 point.  Fits in with
> >>>out any machining.  Buy two in case one breaks.  I haven't
> >>>broken a single one.  Get two 3/8 to 1/2 reducers too.  I've
> >>>destroyed a number of them, but never on the head studs.
> >>>
> >>>On Sun, Jul 29, 2007 at 06:55:40PM -0400, berniek at technicaldevelop.com 
> >>>wrote:
> >>> 
> >>>      
> >>>>During installation of a Cometic HG, I learned a few things which may 
> >>>>be of assistance to those who have not dealt with ARP head studs before:
> >>>>
> >>>>1.  Always thread the studs into the block with the 3/16 hex depression 
> >>>>in the top.  That way they can be removed if needed.
> >>>>
> >>>>2.  The socket to fit the nuts requires machining unless there exists a 
> >>>>special socket I could not find.  I got a Sears 12 point 14 mm 1/2" 
> >>>>drive socket, number 44444, the heaviest they had.  To clear the bucket 
> >>>>housings, camshafts and center valley wall, the socket had to be 
> >>>>machined as follows:
> >>>>
> >>>>a.  For the first .740" of the length starting from the nut end, reduce 
> >>>>the diameter to .765".  That involves removal of about .015" to.020" 
> >>>>        
> >>>>from the business end of the socket.  It will be necessary to use a 
> >>>      
> >>>>carbide bit in the lathe.  The socket is of high quality, made from 
> >>>>tough steel.  The surface finish will not be spectacular, but such is 
> >>>>the price of machining hard steel without more involved finishing 
> >>>>techniques. 
> >>>>
> >>>>b.  Then reduce the diameter towards the drive end to .735" for  a 
> >>>>further length of 1.650".  So the total machined length from the nut 
> >>>>end will be 1.650' + .740" = 2.390".   That reduced diameter is to 
> >>>>clear the camshafts and center valley wall.  There is plenty of meat in 
> >>>>the socket wall once above the 12 point end, so no real  weakness will 
> >>>>exist.  Do not go further back in machining or you will cut through to 
> >>>>the corners of the 1/2" drive recess. 
> >>>>
> >>>>3.  Set the camshafts both so the TDC marks are upwards.  All nuts will 
> >>>>then be accessible past camshaft bumps, hex sections, etc. 
> >>>>
> >>>>4.  The washers MUST be installed on the head surface before the studs 
> >>>>are installed.  They will not fit the studs afterwards due to the 
> >>>>bucket housing wall thickness. 
> >>>>
> >>>>5.  Using the moly lube supplied by ARP, torquing to 80 lb-ft.  was no 
> >>>>problem, done in four stages.  The socket held up perfectly. 
> >>>>
> >>>>6.  If you have had the head and rear timing cover decked (necessary 
> >>>>with any MHG, the ends of the gasket pieces will stick up above the 
> >>>>head surface.  They must be cut off flush since the gasket covers that 
> >>>>junction.
> >>>>
> >>>>7.  It may be possible to carry the nut end diameter to .765" before 
> >>>>carrying it back to .740" diameter section  However, that will weaken 
> >>>>the socket at its must vulnerable point, the nut end where the wall is 
> >>>>thinnest. 
> >>>>
> >>>>   Hope this of some use.
> >>>>
> >>>>      BernieK
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>_______________________________________________
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> >>>>Supras at supras.com
> >>>>http://supras.com/mailman/listinfo/supras_supras.com
> >>>>   
> >>>>        
> >>>
> >>> 
> >>>      
> >
> >
> >
> >  