[Supras] Hopefully useful ARP head stud information

[Dave Henry]

I've had the best luck using the 1/2 to 3/8 adapters that are made for 
impact wrenches, they are that dull flat black color.  They seem to be much 
stronger than the standard chromed ones.

Dave Henry
www.boostwerx.com
701-730-6313

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Jobe" <jjobe2 at supratech.org>
To: <berniek at technicaldevelop.com>
Cc: <Supras at supras.com>
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2007 12:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Supras] Hopefully useful ARP head stud information
>
> BTDT.  I think we did ours with a file and drill press.  That was 8
> or 9 years ago.  I'll take the 3/8 drive socket and reducer any day.  I
> haven't broken my 3/8-1/2 reducer since I bought the spare.  It either
> knows what it's in for or Sears improved it due to me returning the broken
> ones.  :-)  The first socket hasn't broken either, and it's done quite a
> few heads.  It barely fits btw, so it's just the right size.
>
> Not to be rude, but I paid more for my clutch than most people have paid
> for their mk3's.  :-) 92T, 72kmiles, >500rwhp.
>
> On Sun, Jul 29, 2007 at 11:54:25PM -0400, berniek at technicaldevelop.com 
> wrote:
>> Jim:
>>
>>    Thanks for the tip.  At 80 lb-ft, I went for a 1/2" drive socket
>> long before the time to install the ARP studs came up.  By buying the
>> 44444, I was able to tailor the size and steps in the size to exactly
>> what was needed.  The 3/8" drive version is no doubt fine for ARP stud
>> use.  However, I bought the 1/2" socket knowing that I would need to
>> machine it, and would not break reducers.  Many of us spend thousands of
>> dollars on our precious MkIIIs.  A small lathe with at least minimal
>> tooling will cost less than $1500 and will be found to be invaluable for
>> so many tasks, including light milling with a milling attachment (check
>> ebay).
>>
>>       Bernie
>>
>> Jim Jobe wrote:
>> >Grinding the socket down, yeah, BTDT.
>> >
>> >Try Craftsman 44418, 14mm, 3/8 drive, 12 point.  Fits in with
>> >out any machining.  Buy two in case one breaks.  I haven't
>> >broken a single one.  Get two 3/8 to 1/2 reducers too.  I've
>> >destroyed a number of them, but never on the head studs.
>> >
>> >On Sun, Jul 29, 2007 at 06:55:40PM -0400, berniek at technicaldevelop.com
>> >wrote:
>> >
>> >>During installation of a Cometic HG, I learned a few things which may 
>> >>be
>> >>of assistance to those who have not dealt with ARP head studs before:
>> >>
>> >>1.  Always thread the studs into the block with the 3/16 hex depression
>> >>in the top.  That way they can be removed if needed.
>> >>
>> >>2.  The socket to fit the nuts requires machining unless there exists a
>> >>special socket I could not find.  I got a Sears 12 point 14 mm 1/2"
>> >>drive socket, number 44444, the heaviest they had.  To clear the bucket
>> >>housings, camshafts and center valley wall, the socket had to be
>> >>machined as follows:
>> >>
>> >>a.  For the first .740" of the length starting from the nut end, reduce
>> >>the diameter to .765".  That involves removal of about .015" to.020"
>> >>from the business end of the socket.  It will be necessary to use a
>> >>carbide bit in the lathe.  The socket is of high quality, made from
>> >>tough steel.  The surface finish will not be spectacular, but such is
>> >>the price of machining hard steel without more involved finishing
>> >>techniques.
>> >>
>> >>b.  Then reduce the diameter towards the drive end to .735" for  a
>> >>further length of 1.650".  So the total machined length from the nut 
>> >>end
>> >>will be 1.650' + .740" = 2.390".   That reduced diameter is to clear 
>> >>the
>> >>camshafts and center valley wall.  There is plenty of meat in the 
>> >>socket
>> >>wall once above the 12 point end, so no real  weakness will exist.  Do
>> >>not go further back in machining or you will cut through to the corners
>> >>of the 1/2" drive recess.
>> >>
>> >>3.  Set the camshafts both so the TDC marks are upwards.  All nuts will
>> >>then be accessible past camshaft bumps, hex sections, etc.
>> >>
>> >>4.  The washers MUST be installed on the head surface before the studs
>> >>are installed.  They will not fit the studs afterwards due to the 
>> >>bucket
>> >>housing wall thickness.
>> >>
>> >>5.  Using the moly lube supplied by ARP, torquing to 80 lb-ft.  was no
>> >>problem, done in four stages.  The socket held up perfectly.
>> >>
>> >>6.  If you have had the head and rear timing cover decked (necessary
>> >>with any MHG, the ends of the gasket pieces will stick up above the 
>> >>head
>> >>surface.  They must be cut off flush since the gasket covers that
>> >>junction.
>> >>
>> >>7.  It may be possible to carry the nut end diameter to .765" before
>> >>carrying it back to .740" diameter section  However, that will weaken
>> >>the socket at its must vulnerable point, the nut end where the wall is
>> >>thinnest.
>> >>
>> >>    Hope this of some use.
>> >>
>> >>       BernieK
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>_______________________________________________
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>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>
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