[Supras] Hopefully useful ARP head stud information

[Jim Jobe]

BTDT.  I think we did ours with a file and drill press.  That was 8
or 9 years ago.  I'll take the 3/8 drive socket and reducer any day.  I
haven't broken my 3/8-1/2 reducer since I bought the spare.  It either
knows what it's in for or Sears improved it due to me returning the broken
ones.  :-)  The first socket hasn't broken either, and it's done quite a
few heads.  It barely fits btw, so it's just the right size.

Not to be rude, but I paid more for my clutch than most people have paid
for their mk3's.  :-) 92T, 72kmiles, >500rwhp.

On Sun, Jul 29, 2007 at 11:54:25PM -0400, berniek at technicaldevelop.com wrote:
> Jim:
> 
>    Thanks for the tip.  At 80 lb-ft, I went for a 1/2" drive socket 
> long before the time to install the ARP studs came up.  By buying the 
> 44444, I was able to tailor the size and steps in the size to exactly 
> what was needed.  The 3/8" drive version is no doubt fine for ARP stud 
> use.  However, I bought the 1/2" socket knowing that I would need to 
> machine it, and would not break reducers.  Many of us spend thousands of 
> dollars on our precious MkIIIs.  A small lathe with at least minimal 
> tooling will cost less than $1500 and will be found to be invaluable for 
> so many tasks, including light milling with a milling attachment (check 
> ebay).
> 
>       Bernie
> 
> Jim Jobe wrote:
> >Grinding the socket down, yeah, BTDT.
> >
> >Try Craftsman 44418, 14mm, 3/8 drive, 12 point.  Fits in with
> >out any machining.  Buy two in case one breaks.  I haven't
> >broken a single one.  Get two 3/8 to 1/2 reducers too.  I've
> >destroyed a number of them, but never on the head studs.
> >
> >On Sun, Jul 29, 2007 at 06:55:40PM -0400, berniek at technicaldevelop.com 
> >wrote:
> >  
> >>During installation of a Cometic HG, I learned a few things which may be 
> >>of assistance to those who have not dealt with ARP head studs before:
> >>
> >>1.  Always thread the studs into the block with the 3/16 hex depression 
> >>in the top.  That way they can be removed if needed.
> >>
> >>2.  The socket to fit the nuts requires machining unless there exists a 
> >>special socket I could not find.  I got a Sears 12 point 14 mm 1/2" 
> >>drive socket, number 44444, the heaviest they had.  To clear the bucket 
> >>housings, camshafts and center valley wall, the socket had to be 
> >>machined as follows:
> >>
> >>a.  For the first .740" of the length starting from the nut end, reduce 
> >>the diameter to .765".  That involves removal of about .015" to.020" 
> >>from the business end of the socket.  It will be necessary to use a 
> >>carbide bit in the lathe.  The socket is of high quality, made from 
> >>tough steel.  The surface finish will not be spectacular, but such is 
> >>the price of machining hard steel without more involved finishing 
> >>techniques. 
> >>
> >>b.  Then reduce the diameter towards the drive end to .735" for  a 
> >>further length of 1.650".  So the total machined length from the nut end 
> >>will be 1.650' + .740" = 2.390".   That reduced diameter is to clear the 
> >>camshafts and center valley wall.  There is plenty of meat in the socket 
> >>wall once above the 12 point end, so no real  weakness will exist.  Do 
> >>not go further back in machining or you will cut through to the corners 
> >>of the 1/2" drive recess. 
> >>
> >>3.  Set the camshafts both so the TDC marks are upwards.  All nuts will 
> >>then be accessible past camshaft bumps, hex sections, etc. 
> >>
> >>4.  The washers MUST be installed on the head surface before the studs 
> >>are installed.  They will not fit the studs afterwards due to the bucket 
> >>housing wall thickness. 
> >>
> >>5.  Using the moly lube supplied by ARP, torquing to 80 lb-ft.  was no 
> >>problem, done in four stages.  The socket held up perfectly. 
> >>
> >>6.  If you have had the head and rear timing cover decked (necessary 
> >>with any MHG, the ends of the gasket pieces will stick up above the head 
> >>surface.  They must be cut off flush since the gasket covers that 
> >>junction.
> >>
> >>7.  It may be possible to carry the nut end diameter to .765" before 
> >>carrying it back to .740" diameter section  However, that will weaken 
> >>the socket at its must vulnerable point, the nut end where the wall is 
> >>thinnest. 
> >>
> >>    Hope this of some use.
> >>
> >>       BernieK
> >>
> >>
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> >>    
> >
> >
> >
> >