[Supras] Hopefully useful ARP head stud information

[berniek at technicaldevelop.com]

Jim:

    Thanks for the tip.  At 80 lb-ft, I went for a 1/2" drive socket 
long before the time to install the ARP studs came up.  By buying the 
44444, I was able to tailor the size and steps in the size to exactly 
what was needed.  The 3/8" drive version is no doubt fine for ARP stud 
use.  However, I bought the 1/2" socket knowing that I would need to 
machine it, and would not break reducers.  Many of us spend thousands of 
dollars on our precious MkIIIs.  A small lathe with at least minimal 
tooling will cost less than $1500 and will be found to be invaluable for 
so many tasks, including light milling with a milling attachment (check 
ebay).

       Bernie

Jim Jobe wrote:
> Grinding the socket down, yeah, BTDT.
>
> Try Craftsman 44418, 14mm, 3/8 drive, 12 point.  Fits in with
> out any machining.  Buy two in case one breaks.  I haven't
> broken a single one.  Get two 3/8 to 1/2 reducers too.  I've
> destroyed a number of them, but never on the head studs.
>
> On Sun, Jul 29, 2007 at 06:55:40PM -0400, berniek at technicaldevelop.com wrote:
>   
>> During installation of a Cometic HG, I learned a few things which may be 
>> of assistance to those who have not dealt with ARP head studs before:
>>
>> 1.  Always thread the studs into the block with the 3/16 hex depression 
>> in the top.  That way they can be removed if needed.
>>
>> 2.  The socket to fit the nuts requires machining unless there exists a 
>> special socket I could not find.  I got a Sears 12 point 14 mm 1/2" 
>> drive socket, number 44444, the heaviest they had.  To clear the bucket 
>> housings, camshafts and center valley wall, the socket had to be 
>> machined as follows:
>>
>> a.  For the first .740" of the length starting from the nut end, reduce 
>> the diameter to .765".  That involves removal of about .015" to.020" 
>> from the business end of the socket.  It will be necessary to use a 
>> carbide bit in the lathe.  The socket is of high quality, made from 
>> tough steel.  The surface finish will not be spectacular, but such is 
>> the price of machining hard steel without more involved finishing 
>> techniques. 
>>
>> b.  Then reduce the diameter towards the drive end to .735" for  a 
>> further length of 1.650".  So the total machined length from the nut end 
>> will be 1.650' + .740" = 2.390".   That reduced diameter is to clear the 
>> camshafts and center valley wall.  There is plenty of meat in the socket 
>> wall once above the 12 point end, so no real  weakness will exist.  Do 
>> not go further back in machining or you will cut through to the corners 
>> of the 1/2" drive recess. 
>>
>> 3.  Set the camshafts both so the TDC marks are upwards.  All nuts will 
>> then be accessible past camshaft bumps, hex sections, etc. 
>>
>> 4.  The washers MUST be installed on the head surface before the studs 
>> are installed.  They will not fit the studs afterwards due to the bucket 
>> housing wall thickness. 
>>
>> 5.  Using the moly lube supplied by ARP, torquing to 80 lb-ft.  was no 
>> problem, done in four stages.  The socket held up perfectly. 
>>
>> 6.  If you have had the head and rear timing cover decked (necessary 
>> with any MHG, the ends of the gasket pieces will stick up above the head 
>> surface.  They must be cut off flush since the gasket covers that junction.
>>
>> 7.  It may be possible to carry the nut end diameter to .765" before 
>> carrying it back to .740" diameter section  However, that will weaken 
>> the socket at its must vulnerable point, the nut end where the wall is 
>> thinnest. 
>>
>>     Hope this of some use.
>>
>>        BernieK
>>
>>
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>
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