[Supras] Hopefully useful ARP head stud information

[Don R]

not sure what is up with your head but every engine i've built i used a craftsman socket, 
deep well, that wasn't turned down on the arp studs.

berniek at technicaldevelop.com wrote:
> During installation of a Cometic HG, I learned a few things which may be 
> of assistance to those who have not dealt with ARP head studs before:
> 
> 1.  Always thread the studs into the block with the 3/16 hex depression 
> in the top.  That way they can be removed if needed.
> 
> 2.  The socket to fit the nuts requires machining unless there exists a 
> special socket I could not find.  I got a Sears 12 point 14 mm 1/2" 
> drive socket, number 44444, the heaviest they had.  To clear the bucket 
> housings, camshafts and center valley wall, the socket had to be 
> machined as follows:
> 
> a.  For the first .740" of the length starting from the nut end, reduce 
> the diameter to .765".  That involves removal of about .015" to.020" 
> from the business end of the socket.  It will be necessary to use a 
> carbide bit in the lathe.  The socket is of high quality, made from 
> tough steel.  The surface finish will not be spectacular, but such is 
> the price of machining hard steel without more involved finishing 
> techniques. 
> 
> b.  Then reduce the diameter towards the drive end to .735" for  a 
> further length of 1.650".  So the total machined length from the nut end 
> will be 1.650' + .740" = 2.390".   That reduced diameter is to clear the 
> camshafts and center valley wall.  There is plenty of meat in the socket 
> wall once above the 12 point end, so no real  weakness will exist.  Do 
> not go further back in machining or you will cut through to the corners 
> of the 1/2" drive recess. 
> 
> 3.  Set the camshafts both so the TDC marks are upwards.  All nuts will 
> then be accessible past camshaft bumps, hex sections, etc. 
> 
> 4.  The washers MUST be installed on the head surface before the studs 
> are installed.  They will not fit the studs afterwards due to the bucket 
> housing wall thickness. 
> 
> 5.  Using the moly lube supplied by ARP, torquing to 80 lb-ft.  was no 
> problem, done in four stages.  The socket held up perfectly. 
> 
> 6.  If you have had the head and rear timing cover decked (necessary 
> with any MHG, the ends of the gasket pieces will stick up above the head 
> surface.  They must be cut off flush since the gasket covers that junction.
> 
> 7.  It may be possible to carry the nut end diameter to .765" before 
> carrying it back to .740" diameter section  However, that will weaken 
> the socket at its must vulnerable point, the nut end where the wall is 
> thinnest. 
> 
>     Hope this of some use.
> 
>        BernieK
> 
> 
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