[Supras] Coolant and rad (Bob)

[Jeff Mohler]

WW seeps out?

Never, ever...seen or heard of that.  Street cars, my race cars...for a
decade+.

On 8/8/07, Jim Jobe <jjobe2 at supratech.org> wrote:
>
>
> It's entirely possible that the waterpump could be the problem.
> The blades could have rusted away, simple enough.  It could be the
> cap - it could be letting air back in if it's not sealing properly or
> not allowing pressure to build in the system.
>
> Water Wetter has given me nothing but problems, similar symptoms
> in fact AND seeps out everywhere.
>
> The best way to test a t-stat is in a pot of water on a stove to
> see exactly when it starts to open.  Use a thermometer to ensure the
> t-stat is opening at the proper temp.  It should be 50% or greater
> (mine are usually nearly 100% open) by the temp stamped on the outer
> ring.  I would also suggest using a standard OE temp t-stat (88C) as
> that is what the EFI program is designed for.  Yes there are different
> temp t-stats available but that will only mask your problem and cause
> other problems.
>
> You have to remember that the temp sender for the gauge is in the
> top of the t-stat housing.  Any amount of air will collect there and
> cause the gauge to spike.  Any amount of air in the cooling system
> will cause these symptoms, be it a pinhole leak in a hose, a bad cap,
> incorrect mixture of coolant (thus too low of boiling point), or a
> user pulling the overflow hose out of the bottle.
>
> I recommend filling the cooling system with the decent mixture of
> coolant and distilled water.  Squeeze the upper hose a few times
> to get out any large air bubbles.  Then clean and fill the overflow
> bottle to within 1" to the top.  Then heat cycle it (ie drive it).
> It will burp out a lot of air and likely spike the gauge as the
> t-stat opens.  I will then let it coast and eventually pull over
> to refill the overflow ONLY, taking care not to expose the end
> of the hose.  Sometimes it will take 2-3 times.  After this I
> LEAVE IT ALONE and monitor the coolant level from the outside
> of the bottle (see above about cleaning it).  It should
> eventually settle in to the marked cold and hot levels.
>
> The let it idle uphill with the rad cap off while holding
> one butt cheek crap never worked for me - the 7M always
> boils over without pressure.  Plus it's much easier to just drive
> it and let it cycle the air out itself.
>
> On Wed, Aug 08, 2007 at 01:43:24PM +0000, jason estell wrote:
> > Maybe I didnt pay enough attention with all the bickering, you did say
> the
> > temperature was going to red correct.  In this case it is not an issue
> with
> > the cap, well could be but this will cause bubling without overheating,
> > unless too much coolant leaves the system.  I will assume also that the
> fan
> > and clutch assy is also working ok, also a side note the clutch has a
> stall
> > rpm which it will only be able to acheive whithout going any faster.
> > Typicaly 4200 to 5400 rpm.  Need to know what % of what you are running.
> > Water wetter and coolant actualy have little cooling properties.  They
> just
> > raise the boiling and freezing points.  You can get thermostats from 160
> to
> > 210 for these cars aftermarket, and I have had no problems with any of
> the
> > temps and i have used them all in my supras.  As far as running no
> > thermostat you will be running too cool which means running rich in
> return.
> > Water pump is also not culprit, they dont go out like that they just
> leak.
> > (exception a 72 impala i worked on impeller blades eaten away from
> > corrosion.  On the radiator though, u replaced, was it at least a dual
> core
> > radiator, they do sell single core rads for these cars and i have see
> that
> > that will overheat a car at loads.  Advanced timming will make overheat
> > under loads.  Note: thermostat temperature ie 162 deg is the temp the
> > thermostat starts to open not when it is fully open.  Bhg will cause
> > oveheating and it dosent matter what mileage you have on gasket mine
> blew
> > completly in 180 miles.  To test a thermostat fill a cup with water and
> put
> > it in microwave till temp gets high place thermostat in cup and watch to
> > see if it opens should be smooth motion.  Water wetter is a good thing
> to
> > have btw will lower head temps average 10 degs, but will not stop
> > overheating.  Also check boost level, overboosting?  Also if your
> radiator
> > in reman in may not flow enough if they didnt clean the cores will
> enough.
> > So allice how far does the rabbit hole really go.  Message me and ill
> see
> > if i can help more through im instead of tag.      Also for all who read
> > this and read of the auto computer in a manual mine is a converted
> manual
> > and am still running the a/t comp,  you need to jumper the neutal safety
> > swith to clutch switch or constant, and you also need to hook up the
> > reverse lights to the trans by running a hot to it.  I dont know of the
> > auto comp in manual car.  My auto trans comp ran these and i took it out
> to
> > make engine light go away. Hope this is helpfull.
> >
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