[Supras] Coolant and rad (Bob)

[jason estell]

Maybe I didnt pay enough attention with all the bickering, you did say the 
temperature was going to red correct.  In this case it is not an issue with 
the cap, well could be but this will cause bubling without overheating,  
unless too much coolant leaves the system.  I will assume also that the fan 
and clutch assy is also working ok, also a side note the clutch has a stall 
rpm which it will only be able to acheive whithout going any faster.  
Typicaly 4200 to 5400 rpm.  Need to know what % of what you are running.  
Water wetter and coolant actualy have little cooling properties.  They just 
raise the boiling and freezing points.  You can get thermostats from 160 to 
210 for these cars aftermarket, and I have had no problems with any of the 
temps and i have used them all in my supras.  As far as running no 
thermostat you will be running too cool which means running rich in return.  
Water pump is also not culprit, they dont go out like that they just leak.  
(exception a 72 impala i worked on impeller blades eaten away from 
corrosion.  On the radiator though, u replaced, was it at least a dual core 
radiator, they do sell single core rads for these cars and i have see that 
that will overheat a car at loads.  Advanced timming will make overheat 
under loads.  Note: thermostat temperature ie 162 deg is the temp the 
thermostat starts to open not when it is fully open.  Bhg will cause 
oveheating and it dosent matter what mileage you have on gasket mine blew 
completly in 180 miles.  To test a thermostat fill a cup with water and put 
it in microwave till temp gets high place thermostat in cup and watch to see 
if it opens should be smooth motion.  Water wetter is a good thing to have 
btw will lower head temps average 10 degs, but will not stop overheating.  
Also check boost level, overboosting?  Also if your radiator in reman in may 
not flow enough if they didnt clean the cores will enough.   So allice how 
far does the rabbit hole really go.  Message me and ill see if i can help 
more through im instead of tag.      Also for all who read this and read of 
the auto computer in a manual mine is a converted manual and am still 
running the a/t comp,  you need to jumper the neutal safety swith to clutch 
switch or constant, and you also need to hook up the reverse lights to the 
trans by running a hot to it.  I dont know of the auto comp in manual car.  
My auto trans comp ran these and i took it out to make engine light go away. 
    Hope this is helpfull.

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