[Supras] Thermostat Question Again!

[cthommes at adelphia.net]

Derek,
If I was faced with the symptoms you describe, I would replace the thermostat AND water pump AND radiator cap with brand new OEM components.  This list would definitely include fan clutch if you didn't indicate this is already brand new.

While everything was open and drained, I would verify flow (with garden hose or the like) through both radiator and engine cooling circuit to be sure there's not something clogging the works.

Then I'd fill it back up, *BURP THE AIR OUT* and call it a day, because that's sure to fix it.

The cool lower hose is a dead givaway that something isn't allowing flow.  FWIW, I've installed DOA thermostats (both standt AND OEM!) that were stuck out of the box.  It's always a good idea to test even new ones on the stove before relying on them.

-Craig

---- Charismatisch at aol.com wrote: 
> Hi there guys and gals,
>  
> I am sorry to have triggered-off such an argument with my question, however  
> my problem still remains the same.
>  
> The radiator is brand new, so are all the gaskets (inclusive valve shafts  
> and HG). I did a full oil-change and coolant-change with the HG and replaced the 
>  plugs. The whole fan and clutch is also brand new.
>  
> If I stay in town traffic, the temp gauge never goes above the  halfway level 
> and the car runs beautifully and shows me a full radiator once it  cools down 
> and I am able to open the rad.cap. The heating blows hot after about  a 
> minute already, indicating to me that the thermo is functional at the  beginning.
>  
> Once I take the car onto the Autobahn at 150+ mph and as long as it is  being 
> cooled by the air from the front, the temp stays ok. When I come off the  
> Autobahn and reach the first stop sign, the temp slowly climbs into the red and  
> comes back down a little when I drive off again. When I reach home, the water 
> in  the expansion tank is gurgling. After spewing a little, the rad. shows me 
> too  little water.
>  
> Also, the main rubber pipe to the rad. at the top is often warm/hot and has  
> some air in it, whereas the bottom rubber pipe from the rad. to the engine is  
> cold or cooler. This would seem to indicate, that the flow of the water is  
> getting partially 'stuck' or 'slowed-down' somewhere, which may mean, that  the 
> thermo is not functioning fully and creates a kind of 'tailback' or  
> 'congestion' in the system and is not allowing it to flow fast enough when the  engine 
> is under duress.
>  
> As a layman I would think that the thermo is closing fully when cold (hence  
> the heating working soon and well at first), but not opening fully when the  
> coolant/water mixture is hot. This wouldn't become apparent at slow speeds/town 
>  traffic, but under strain at 150 mph the thru-flow would not be sufficient 
> once  the car comes to a hot standstill.
>  
> Your comments please??.
>  
> Derek, 88T Automatic.
>  
>  
>  
>  
> 
> 
> 
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